When Ernesto and I left his house at 7 am, I had no idea we wouldn’t be back until almost midnight. What an amazing day it turned out to be.
I found Ernesto on Couchsurfing and he hosted me for my first three nights of this six-week trip, at his beautiful home on the edge of a canyon in Guadalajara. Our plan that morning was to join his camping/hiking group for a hike to waterfalls outside of the town of Tequila, which is famous for the dozens of tequila distilleries there.
After driving to the center of the city, we met up with about 25 other Mexican hikers of all ages and backgrounds. This group is very active and on this weekend there were three excursions – the waterfall hike, camping on a remote beach, and a hike up the highest mountain in Jalisco state.
We boarded a private bus and drove the hour or so to the town of Tequila where we began the hike. It was already quite hot out, but we went at a leisurely pace and enjoyed nice conversations and scenery of the agave fields.
My Spanish skills are quite rusty, so I was doing more listening than talking, and not always understanding what was being said. Still, it was a beautiful day and when Ernesto said, “You’re the only foreigner here,” I responded, “That’s how I like it!”
After passing beautiful stone walls surrounding more agave fields, we made it to the descent down to the waterfalls. This section was shaded by trees but very steep and rocky.
Drenched in sweat, I didn’t mind the chilly waters under the falls. One of the group members said, “Welcome to Niagara Falls, Tim.” I told her these falls were better than Niagara because you can swim in them.
From there, most of the group continued on a longer hike to a river deeper in the countryside. Under Ernesto’s advice, I opted to return to the town and explore the “pueblo mágico” of Tequila. After lingering at the falls for a bit, my hike back under an even hotter sun was brutal. I was so thankful I didn’t go on the longer hike as I knew there was some food and, well, tequila, waiting for me in town.
When I wasn’t in town, I sat and chatted with several other hikers who had returned and were waiting where our bus was parked, including a very friendly self-described drunk man who I initially thought was our driver (luckily I was mistaken). These conversations with individuals and small groups flowed much more easily and gave me more confidence in my Spanish skills.
By this point, despite being sweaty and covered in dust, it felt great to be sitting in the shade on a busy corner chatting with Mexicans while all the tourists were in town drinking tequila. I much prefer the former (though I did have a sample of the local drink).
The rest of the group returned little by little, hours after their expected arrival, reporting intense heat and difficulty even for these experienced hikers. I definitely made the right choice.
Upon our return to the center of Guadalajara, Ernesto took me to a night market in one of the plazas where there were at least two vegan food stands. We enjoyed local specialties: delicious bowls of pozole and menudo. We observed dancers in the plaza and Ernesto randomly encountered some friends in this busy plaza in a city of six million.
Ernesto bought some tamales to bring to the attendant where his car was parked, and on the way home we visited another warm and welcoming friend of his. Over a couple of hours, we chatted, drank tea, ate some dessert, and I even had an electro-stimulated massage. I may have even had my first marriage proposal in Mexico, but that’s another story.
The following evening, I enjoyed a beautiful sunset with a fellow Couchsurfer who had just arrived for one night, a Bulgarian man riding across Mexico on his motorcycle. He shared some secrets about places to retire in Mexico, and also shared some rum which relaxes him after a long day on the bike.
Two mornings later, just before I left Ernesto’s, he interviewed me for a Couchsurfing channel he is creating. Ernesto has hosted nearly 200 Couchsurfers and wants to share what he has learned from the experience through these interviews. I’ve never felt more comfortable in front of a camera.
I know that I am still processing all that I have learned from my stay with Ernesto. He is truly one of the kindest, most welcoming, sincere and open-minded people I have met. I find myself thinking that I want to be more like him – he is a powerful example of how to live in this world.
Lori
May 10, 2023 @ 18:20
Oh, Tim!!! Thank you for sharing! So excited to live vicariously, once again, through your amazing travels. Have a fabulous trip!
p.s. I might enjoy a good shot of tequila……once in a while!
Tim
May 11, 2023 @ 23:11
There are many more ways to drink tequila than I ever knew about.
Lori
May 15, 2023 @ 18:04
Oooooh! Can’t wait to hear all about it!
Stevi Blanchette
May 10, 2023 @ 18:54
Fascinating narrative and wonderful pictures! Thanks, Tim!
Tim
May 11, 2023 @ 23:12
Thanks, Stevi.
Leah
May 10, 2023 @ 21:53
Tim, you are clearly “in your element”! Enjoy the journey my friend. And I bet you are more like Ernesto than you give yourself credit for.
Tim
May 11, 2023 @ 23:12
Yes, I do feel in my element. Thanks!
Madeline
May 10, 2023 @ 22:34
Tim
thanks for sharing your adventure. you are having a wonderful time it seems. we miss you but I am so happy you are getting to experience Mexico in such a unique way. can’t wait to hear the marriage proposal story…
Tim
May 11, 2023 @ 23:13
Thanks for reading, Madeline. Great that we can still chat on the phone.
Pamela Young
May 11, 2023 @ 07:40
Thanks for taking us along, Tim! Another amazing trip, I can tell ~ be safe!
Tim
May 11, 2023 @ 23:14
I feel a little lost without my “travel wife,” but I send her texts throughout the day just to bug her.
Elaine Temel
May 11, 2023 @ 09:52
Wow! That sounds like such a blast. I’m so glad you are on another adventure. The pictures of the waterfall are so lovely and inviting. Thanks for posting!
Tim
May 11, 2023 @ 23:15
Thanks, Elaine. I don’t usually write about alcohol in my posts since I sometimes used them for school, but this one was an exception.
Vicky Ann
May 11, 2023 @ 10:42
Your photos are as wonderful as your words
Tim
May 11, 2023 @ 23:15
Thanks! Feels strange not to have you along.
Ginny
May 11, 2023 @ 13:00
Love this post!
Tim
May 11, 2023 @ 23:16
Thanks, Ginny!
Karen Champ
May 11, 2023 @ 21:09
Sounds like another wonderful travel experience. Thank you for sharing!
Tim
May 11, 2023 @ 23:16
Nice to hear from you, Karen. Thanks for reading.
Noreen
May 14, 2023 @ 06:06
Que divertido! Yo necesito practicar español. Hablemos cuando tú volver.
(How did I do?)
Tim
May 15, 2023 @ 01:47
A+
Es posible que tu español mejora con tequila.
Deidre
May 15, 2023 @ 07:13
For a moment in time I felt like I was with you. What an incredible trip.
You are a true adventurer and beautiful writer.
Tim
May 16, 2023 @ 21:54
Glad you are along for the ride, Deidre! Thanks!
Solo Travel | The Alternate Route
May 15, 2023 @ 17:09
[…] staying with a Couchsurfer in Guadalajara and meeting lots of local people, I moved to Guanajuato, a city I hadn’t heard of before […]