If you’d asked me a week ago if I was the type of person who would swim with sharks, I’d have answered with an emphatic “No way!” But swimming with sharks became a normal thing to do during my time in the Galápagos, and I’d happily do it again.
It’s hard to put into words the experiences Vicky Ann and I had over 8 days on three different islands. I’ll try to condense it into some unexpected surprises that I discovered along the way.
Not Just Tropical
I wore wetsuits for the first time because the water surrounding the islands is surprisingly chilly. In fact, I learned that the Galápagos Islands are not entirely tropical despite lying on the equator in the Southeast Pacific. The islands also have a semi-arid climate and some relatively cool temperatures due to the ocean currents.
We saw more cactus than I’ve seen just about anywhere.
It was definitely hot in the sun, but cool in the evenings. Air conditioning was not always needed.
Super Safe
I have written a lot about how safe the world is compared to most people’s impressions from the media. Galápagos takes safety to a whole new level.
Locals depend on tourists and there seems to be an unwritten code to treat tourists with respect. We never saw a police officer during our time on the islands. I left my rented bike unlocked in several places (as did everyone else) without an ounce of worry. Prices were fairly consistent (and cheap) for taxis, unlike many other tourist destinations.
Well-behaved Tourists
We met so many people from around the world visiting the islands, some on multi-month trips and others leaving their country for the first time. What stood out to me was how everyone seemed to understand the importance of respecting the flora, fauna, and people of the Galápagos.
Everyone seemed relaxed, I heard no one complaining, litter was non-existent, I never saw anyone leave a trail or get too close to an animal.
The Ecuadorian government limits the number of visitors to each island at any given time, so we were never among throngs of tourist, which might have helped with keeping everyone calm.
As more than one guide told us, the Galápagos doesn’t belong to Ecuador, it belongs to the world, and we all have a responsibility to ensure it stays preserved for future generations.
Cheap Galápagos?
Five-dollar lunches are the norm in restaurants that serve the “menu del día.” Vicky Ann and I enjoyed many of these and were so full that we swore we wouldn’t eat the rest of the day.
We usually did, though, since there was so much good (and relatively cheap) food to try.
We found delicious pizza on Isabela Island and the most amazing “Andean salad” in Santa Cruz. We splurged some nights, but still spent no more than $15 for a meal and drinks.
Our average accommodation costs were $28 a night (each) and included a two-bedroom apartment, a hotel on the beach, and another with a pool. We weren’t sleeping in luxury places, but we were living in comfort.
Finding a day tour on any island was a breeze. We did a combination of full and half-day tours, and some days were spent exploring on our own.
Many who visit the islands choose to take an all-inclusive cruise. We opted for the do-it-yourself option to save money. The cheapest cruises are $500-$1000 per day. Our expenses were hundreds of dollars cheaper per day. We also enjoyed the opportunity to meet local people and hang out in the small towns which would not have happened otherwise.
So yes, it’s possible to visit the Galápagos relatively cheaply. Feel free to contact me if you want more detailed information or need help in planning your trip!
Be Prepared to Hike
If you do visit the Galápagos, be prepared to hike. As Vicky Ann and I quickly discovered, a taxi bringing you to a beach will leave you in what seems like the middle of nowhere. You might hear the waves crashing in the distance, but it could take 30-60 minutes or more to follow the path to the beach.
One you’re used to this, it’s fine, because along the way there is always lots to see. We were just caught off guard at first!
Hikes are also a part of tours of all types. Whether traveling by boat or land, there are always stops that require walking, often along jagged lava rocks.
And getting from island to island on the small speedboat ferries is not always a comfortable ride. You just endure it for a couple of hours knowing that more snorkeling and hiking adventures await at the next stop.
You might get tired of sea lions
It’s easy to spot the new arrivals who are snapping photos and gawking over the sea lions on the beach and swimming with tourists in the water. We were like that when we first arrived, but within twenty minutes we were done with sea lions.
They are quite smelly and often take over public spaces like sidewalks and benches. We were glad that as we moved on to other beaches and islands, the sea lion population was less intrusive, and we were ecstatic when we came across a beach with none.
Yes, the babies are cute and it does seem as if they pose for photos, but the obnoxious barking and excrement left behind detract from all of that.
And though there are also invasions of marine iguanas in some areas, we never grew tired of seeing them!
Friendly People Everywhere
Well, this one is not surprising as I often write about meeting nice people no matter where I travel, but again, the ease of meeting friendly people in the Galápagos cannot be overstated.
Our Italian “co-pilot” and her husband gave us a great restaurant recommendation when we ran into them two days after our first meeting. She had been sitting in the co-pilot seat for our short flight on a ten-passenger plane from San Cristóbal to Isabela Island.
The young Ecuadorian engineer and his Uruguayan actress girlfriend joined us for lunch at one of our favorite restaurants in San Cristóbal after we met on a four-person tour of some local sites. They shared their beautiful story of their chance meeting which involved soccer of course.
We first encountered the twenty-something German guy when we passed each other on one of those remote beach paths, each looking for directions from the other. He appeared twice more on another island and we enjoyed sharing tips and stories from our adventures.
Another German traveler, Nico, and a theater worker from England joined us at our favorite ice cream shop in Isabela after we got to know each other while snorkeling with turtles, two kinds of sharks, sea horses, sea lions, penguins, and many colorful schools of fish.
We have new friends originally from India but now in Toronto who we crossed paths with at least four times during our travels, including at the Saturday evening mass in Isabela.
I can’t forget the amazing guides we had on our tours who are also multilingual scientists who share their enthusiasm for the Galápagos with tourists every day. And Vicky Ann bonded with more than one handsome boat captain by showing photos of her sons’ giant fish catches.
And who would have thought that a coffee shop would be a highlight of our time on the islands? Ana at Ranti in San Cristóbal gave us an informal tour that rivals any coffee farm tour I’ve been on, all from the coffee shop. This non-coffee-drinking barista shared much wisdom about health and happiness; we left with some new herbal drink recipes, book recommendations, and a promise to keep in touch.
Even in a place like the Galápagos which is all about the wildlife, making connections with others enriches the experience in ways that are indescribable.
We’re on our way home now, on separate flights to separate cities, but we’re already talking about the next adventure.
Here are a few of the photos from three islands in the Galápagos: San Cristóbal, Isabela, and Santa Cruz.
And check further below for a few GoPro videos thanks to our friend from Nottingham (whose name escapes me)!
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May 31, 2024 @ 07:01
You’ve outdone yourself, Tim! What a treat to see and hear about this amazing cap to your adventures! So glad that you had our friend, Vicky Ann to share it with! Safe travels, and looking forward to seeing you soon!
June 2, 2024 @ 20:42
Great to see you today, Pam. I loved sharing my adventures with you.
May 31, 2024 @ 09:31
Tim! I am catching up on some of your posts. You are still living the dream! I love it and am so envious. Thanks for the inspiration. Galapagos are on our bucket list — nice to know we don’t have to abandon our travel style to go there. Keep on carrying on.
May 31, 2024 @ 09:32
Nice typo to my own name!
June 2, 2024 @ 20:44
I recognized you even with the altered name! Definitely a place where you can backpack, travel cheaply, and get see a lot. I even saw some workaway opportunities there (though I met a German guy who did one that turned out to be a scam – so do your homework!) Let me know when you decide to go.
May 31, 2024 @ 10:13
Sounds like an great way to do the Galapagas! I will definitely be asking for your notes! Or maybe you want to go again? Great post as always.
Are you ever coming home? lol.
June 2, 2024 @ 20:45
Yes, I’m home. Fourteen weeks went by fast though. Let me know when you want to get together and plan your next trip. I’d definitely go back!
May 31, 2024 @ 11:35
Journey posted perfectly!
Travel with Tim you won’t regret it for a second.
Muchas Gracias for an amazing trip
And so nice to be traveling with a Hollywood actor as one of our new friends spoke about Tim!
June 2, 2024 @ 20:47
And the same friend described Vicky Ann as “super beautiful.” She also got a lot more honks from the taxi drivers than I did.
May 31, 2024 @ 14:26
Loved reading about your adventure, especially seeing the tortoises and marine iguanas! So glad that you both had such a lovely time 🙂
June 2, 2024 @ 20:49
Thanks, Kylie. Vicky Ann is ready to travel with you – I told her all of our stories. Next time!
May 31, 2024 @ 17:06
Tim your pictures show how beautiful and perfect the natural world is. It’s even more apparent to me that we must protect the environment at all costs. The scenes of the animals, the water and the fauna were spectacular and I appreciate each one of them. Thank you for taking us along on this fantastic trip. can’t wait to see you! safe travels home.
May 31, 2024 @ 17:09
Tim,
your pictures show how beautiful and perfect the natural world is. It’s even more apparent to me that we must protect the environment at all costs. The scenes of the animals, the water and the fauna were spectacular and I appreciate each one of them. Vicki Ann looks like she had a great time. Thank you for taking us along on this fantastic trip. can’t wait to see you! safe travels home.
June 2, 2024 @ 20:51
Thanks, Madeline. It becomes clear in a place like this how fragile the environment is and how our actions can impact environments thousands of miles away.
June 1, 2024 @ 10:30
Just amazing as always…….loved that you were able to share it with Vicky Ann….must have been some adventure! The pictures are just glorious but the descriptions of the people you met inspire me. My plan is to swim with the stingrays this summer…….tamer than swimming with the sharks….I bow to your bravery! Safe travels, friends!
June 2, 2024 @ 20:52
Can’t wait to hear about your adventures! The stingrays are so majestic – a group of about 20 swam right by us. You’ll love it!
June 4, 2024 @ 13:07
I confess I am late getting to this, but enjoyed it all the more! Just when I think your adventures can’t possibly get any more amazing, they DO!
Thanks so much for sharing your travels!!
June 7, 2024 @ 15:58
Thanks so much for your interest and encouragement! Where to, next?
June 10, 2024 @ 08:07
I love your adventures. It is better than the amazing race because it is your race around the world. And your writing is just also amazing you just bring it alive for anybody who reads your text. How jealous I am watching you travel around the world, actually being part of cultures and sharing it with all of us. How fortunate am I to have such a wonderful friend? Thank you, Tim
June 11, 2024 @ 20:39
❤️