It’s All about the Jeeps

The two Dutch women across from me were telling stories about their year camping in New Zealand. The couple from Melbourne related their own Kiwi adventures and coffee culture in their city. Squeezed in the corner, a young Venezuelan guy chimed in when the conversation turned to our experiences hiking the Cocora Valley that day.

We were strangers crammed together in the back of a Jeep “Willy,” the basic mode of transportation in Colombia’s coffee region. We were exhausted after seven hours of hiking, but excited to share the individual stories of getting lost on the trail and favorite travel destinations.

I had spent most of the day hiking on my own, but met people from all over the world. I met a friendly recent Boston College graduate traveling with her Colombian father on the 8 am Jeep from the small town of Filandia to another small town, Salento. The 30-minute ride gave us time to get to know each other and share tips before jumping on another Jeep to the Cocora Valley.

On the trail, I was in complete awe of the stunning scenery and quite happy to be alone for long stretches just to soak it all in. I took detours, took my time, and took hundreds of photos. I visited the “Hummingbird House” off a side trail, chatted with people from Portugal, Spain, Canada, and Brazil, and heard lots of German, French and other languages being spoken.

I stopped for hot chocolate at one country house and tea at another. I didn’t want the hike to end.

The Cocora Valley is known for the wax palm trees, the tallest palms in the world. They can grow to 200 feet and live for 120 years, but unfortunately are endangered for a variety of reasons.

The trail goes through a lush green valley, a dense cloud forest, past a waterfall and crosses a river several times. The weather is perfect for hiking, not too hot and welcome intervals of clouds and an occasional cooling shower.

Standing in the plaza back in Salento, a few of us just couldn’t stop our conversation. Exhausted as we were, we shared an energy that comes with encountering fellow travelers who share an excitement about exploring new places.

I was invited to join Axell and Kiran (the couple from Melbourne by way of Mexico and India) and Jose (the medical student from Venezuela) for a meal in Salento. Though I thought they were traveling together, and even thought Jose must be their nephew, it turns out they had met on their Jeep that morning. “I was adopted,” Jose said happily when explaining how he ended up hiking with them all day. “And now I have another grandchild,” I assured him.

We shared stories of family and friends who worry about our safety but who have no idea what wonderful journeys we’re on. We shared details of our lives, stories of how we came to be here, how we’re able to travel cheaply, and what our next destinations might be. Mostly we just bonded over this passion to see the world.

After quickly exchanged contact information, I ran off to catch my final Jeep of the day. Sure enough, I reconnected with the woman and her father I had met that morning. It was great to compare notes from the day and learn more about each other’s lives. I hope to see them in Rhode Island someday.

I’ve written that one of the best parts of traveling is meeting new people, but the hardest part, for me, is saying goodbye to new friends. Jose will go back to Venezuela to study medicine while Axell and Kiran, now in their fifth month of travel, will continue their adventures with no end in sight (though we hope to connect in Medellín).

There’s an entire history to the Jeeps in this region of Colombia. For me, the Jeeps were a great way to meet people, see the beautiful landscapes, and feel a little more connected to the culture.

Cocora Valley

Sorry, I couldn’t stop taking pictures.

Coffee Farm

Jose and I ended up doing a coffee farm tour the next day (recommended by our new friends), which involved another Jeep ride and a hike through a construction zone. I learned a lot but what stands out the most is how little the people who do most of the work earn. Twelve hours a day picking beans might bring in just a few dollars.

Doors (and More) of Salento and Filandia

The nine hours of travel on two buses from Bogotá, through the Andes, was well worth it!