While scrubbing five days of mud, sweat, sunscreen and insect repellant off of my body I felt identical bulges on the back of each leg. It took a moment to realize that it was my calf muscles, not my usual spindly legs. In the light of my hotel room, I also noticed many dozens more red spots from the hundreds of insect bites received on the path to Choquequirao in the mountains of Peru.
Our group of 13 hikers, two guides, one chef, five porters and horsemen and several donkeys had set out five days before to reach the ruins known as “The Other Machu Picchu.” After so many days trekking through remote regions and bonding as a group, we ended the tour with a packed train ride to Machu Picchu, one of the seven wonders of the world. We all looked forward to warm showers and beds in Aguas Calientes, the closest town to the ruins, but the hoards of tourists after so much isolation was a bit jarring.
On my own
Saying goodbye after our final lunch together was bittersweet. My group and guides dashed off to catch the train back to Cusco, but I had one more mountain to climb, and this time I would be alone. How would I manage without the careful guidance of our wonderful guides, Edu and Javier, and the companionship and encouragement of my twelve fellow hikers? There would be no one to wake me up at 4:30 am with a cup of coca leaf tea and a basin of warm water for bathing. Chef Pedro wouldn’t have a hearty breakfast ready. Alex and Roosevelt, the teenage porters, wouldn’t be there to fill my water bottle with freshly boiled water. Though 4000 tourists enter Machu Picchu every day, I would feel very much alone.
But I was prepared. Thanks to the examples set by guides, fellow hikers, porters, chef and horsemen, and thanks to my new bulging calf muscles, I knew this final hike would not be difficult at all. I had climbed Huayna Picchu Mountain, the one seen in the background of every iconic photo of the ruins, the day before. It was incredibly steep but the views were so rewarding. On this final day, I would climb Machu Picchu Mountain which rises on the opposite side of the ruins and is much taller.
Yes, I managed to wake myself up, fill my water bottle, pack my snacks, and find my way to the right bus and correct entrance to climb the mountain. I went slowly, taking pictures of everything along the way, thinking about the previous six days of much more challenging climbs.
At the top, I attempted to perform an offering to Pachamama and the “apus,” mountain spirits, as Edu had done in a moving ceremony for our group at Choquequirao. I had lost my coca leaves on the way up and had to improvise, but I think the message got through.
Choque – what?
Before starting the Choquequirao hike, I had only met one person who had done it, and that was the waitress in the courtyard of a beautiful hotel in a former monastery the day before embarking on my adventure. Maria had decided on a whim to do the trek solo. She assured me it would be challenging (there will be tears) but so worth it. My chat with her made me feel more ready than ever for what was to come. I promised that upon my return I would share some photos and stories with her.
Checking in at the Alpaca office two days before departure, I found dozens of others checking in for their Inca Trail hikes, but no one going to Choquequirao. I had never heard of it either, until I read the book Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams. His description of his travels to retrace Hiram Bingham’s steps in search of the Lost City of the Incas convinced me to return to Cusco, a city I visited in 1991 during my first trip to Machu Picchu.
I was encouraged that Adams was not an avid hiker before taking his multi-week trek, but ignored the fact that he said the hardest day was climbing to Choquequirao.
The site is much larger than Machu Picchu and has few visitors due to its remote location. That is destined to change, though, when a planned cable car is built that is sure to carry thousands of tourists there, turning our five-day trek into 15 minutes.
I can attest to what muleteer Delfin Cconaya Vargas says in this video regarding the challenges of the hike: “Suffering has its value and people return home happy.”
Trail Routines
It was a grueling hike that went either straight up or down most of the way. One thing I loved about our group was that despite our varying abilities, everyone was so welcoming and supportive of each other. We went at our own pace with Javier usually in front and Edu in the rear, keeping a careful eye on our progress and likelihood to remain on the trail and not tumble down the mountain.
I was happy to spend most of my time with a smaller group of similarly-paced hikers. Ranging in age from 27 to 59, we took turns in the lead, talked about many topics when we had the breath, and silently encouraged each other while trudging towards the next shady spot for a break. We also marveled at the group of mostly older hikers from California who were often up to an hour ahead of us.
After an early rise and breakfast, we were usually on the trail by 6 am in order to avoid the midday heat. We climbed or descended for several hours before stopping for lunch, miraculously set up and prepared by our team. They had packed up the previous night’s campsite, carefully loading the mules with everything (food, gas tanks, dining table, pots and pans, plates and utensils, tents, sleeping bags, air mattresses, our bags, even the green plastic stools we sat on for meals), passed us on the trail, and were working furiously to prepare lunch as we arrived and plopped ourselves down for some much-needed rest.
We were back on the trail after several hours of lunch and rest. It could be another 2-3 hours of hiking, but it was all up or down.
Our 5 pm “happy hour” consisted of popcorn, tea, and often a cake that Chef Pedro had miraculously prepared. Next came dinner which included another round of various platters of delicious treats such as yucca patties, quinoa croquettes, seasoned vegetables, several of the thousands of types of Peruvian potatoes, mango ceviche, trout, meats for the carnivores and more delicious options for the vegans. Oh, and each meal began with a delicious soup. On the trail, we often asked each other, “What kind of soup do you think we’ll have today?” It motivated us to keep going.
Evenings were spent star gazing, sharing stories with each other (often of our middle-of-the-night bathroom trips), or listening to ghost stories, celebrity encounters, and other tales about previous groups Edu and Javier had led, some of them tragic and very moving. We were usually in our tents by 8 pm, resting before the next early start.
Giving thanks
The group was fairly ecstatic to finally reach Choquequirao. We could barely see it in the distance from our starting point. Looking back, it seemed impossible that we had descended 1500 meters (4921 feet) to the valley floor, crossed the Apurimac River and climbed 1800 meters (5905 feet) from there. Day three at the ruins was our “easy” day, though my phone told me we did more steps than any other day.
At the ruins, I thought of my sister Anne who passed away from cancer last year. Though she didn’t travel much, she was an avid reader of this blog and always wanted to hear of my adventures.
There nearly were tears shed during the offering Edu made with coca leaves to the apus and Pachamama, reminding me to be thankful for the Incan ancestors who built this city many centuries ago and for the mountains and Mother Earth for the privilege of experiencing their majestic beauty.
The moment we reached the highest point of Choquequirao, a condor flew overhead. The spirits were with us. And we lived up to our group name “Choque-Carry-On,” we carried on until the end.
What remains
“Excuse me, were you just in the jungle?” The voice with an Australian accent came from behind as I was walking down an alley the day after returning to Cusco. Despite the cold, I was wearing shorts since all of my sweat-soaked, sunscreen-and-bug-spray-stained, mule-smelling clothes were in the laundry. I knew immediately what the woman was referring to – it was impossible not to notice the hundreds of red insect bites dotting my legs. I was proud to show them off, my badge of honor, and by the end of our conversation she was considering doing the Choquequirao trek!
Indeed, as Maria said when I did return to visit after my trek, the energy of Choquequirao gives you more strength and confidence.
Beyond the amazing scenery and remote ruins, what remains with me is all I learned about Incan culture, both past and present. I chose Alpaca Expeditions partly because they are indigenous owned and operated. The guides and the entire team shared their wisdom with us, including their great respect for the environment and pride in their ancestry, and for that I am eternally grateful.
More from Choquequirao
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More from Machu Picchu
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Next stop is Quito. Stay tuned for a special guest joining me on the last part of my trip!
Update
Here is a great video from Adam Radcliffe from the UK, one of the hikers on our trip. Adam is an “adventurer, bodybuilder, and endurance athlete” among other things. It was interesting to learn about his life and the journey that led him to where he is today. He is wise beyond his years! His friend, Mike, was the videographer. Enjoy the video for a taste of what our hike was like.
May 15, 2024 @ 18:48
Oh, Tim! I bow to your adventurous spirit and bravery!!! What an incredible experience! Thank you, as always, for sharing!
May 17, 2024 @ 12:28
Thanks! Having an audience does give me a bit of motivation!
May 15, 2024 @ 19:09
I am speechess!! Amazing photos, descriptions, and that video was really something. Thank you, Tim, for this vicarious travel experience! Stay safe!
May 17, 2024 @ 12:28
Also speechless! Glad you were able to get a glimpse of what it was like.
May 15, 2024 @ 19:12
Tim,
We love reading about all of your adventures! Thanks for sharing.
May 15, 2024 @ 19:49
Mr. Tim, I really appreciate your beautiful visit to our Peru for the second time and that you can appreciate the beauty of my country. Seeing that there are more places to visit, don’t forget that your trek to Salkantay is pending.😁
May 17, 2024 @ 12:33
So nice to hear from you, Maria! Your stories of Choquequirao inspired me just when I needed it. Yes, Salkantay is in the future – maybe you will join us?
May 17, 2024 @ 12:30
So glad you’re following along, Jenny and Willy! Guess who’s meeting me in Ecuador to go to the Galápagos?
May 15, 2024 @ 19:21
This ~ and YOU ~ are so amazing! I hope it will be possible to eliminate the tourism that some have proposed! It needs to be preserved for the sake of those who WORK to make it continue to be available to those (like you) who are willing to make the commitment to see it firsthand.
I hope you might be able to present a program at some point to tell others about this fabulous journey of yours!
Take care, and we look forward to seeing you again soon!
Pam
May 17, 2024 @ 12:32
Thanks, Pam. It is a complicated situation with the cable car as there will be benefits for some but losses for others. No ground broken yet, but it has been approved. It will certainly change things drastically.
May 16, 2024 @ 02:44
Thanks for the post, Tim! Reminds me of my semester abroad with Fulbright-Hays. Greetings from Taiwan.
May 17, 2024 @ 12:35
Great to hear from you, Frederic! I know you have a lot of experience in this part of the world. It’s been an amazing trip and there’s still so many reasons to come back. Enjoy Taiwan – fill me in on your latest news.
May 16, 2024 @ 08:53
Tim, what an inspirational story of your adventure and endurance. Take care on your continued travels.
May 17, 2024 @ 12:36
Thanks, Diane! Glad you are enjoying the stories. Hope all is well.
May 16, 2024 @ 21:24
Simply amazing Tim. Flanagan Clan is so proud of you. Yes, our sister Anne loved vicariously “traveling” along with you on your adventures.
Nice teaser on your nxt. post & a “special guest”…..looking forward!
May 17, 2024 @ 12:37
Thanks, Kathy! It was nice sharing the story of Anne when everyone asked about my t-shirt. She was with us in spirit for sure.
May 16, 2024 @ 23:11
I am so thankful to you, Tim because you brought this wonderful adventure alive for me. I see what you have done and I vow that I will have more adventures. They might not be mountain climbing and hiking in South America, but they certainly will be something that will not only enrich my life, but the lives of the people I share them with.. You have Motivated me as well as enriched me I only wish I could write so vividly as you. I can’t wait till you come home
May 17, 2024 @ 12:38
Uh . . . kind of hard to imagine someone more adventurous than you! Then again, we are both lifelong learners who love to experience new challenges. See you soon!
May 18, 2024 @ 22:30
Amazing experience!!
Was a pleasure meeting you on the ride from Aguas Calientes to Cusco. Your travel experiences and your blogs are inspiring!!
May 19, 2024 @ 19:11
Great to hear from you, Sesh! Thoroughly enjoyed our conversation in the van. A great ending to an amazing trip – I almost wrote about it in the post but it was getting too long! Hope we can cross paths again. Thanks for the comment and hello to your wife (G . . . sorry, can’t quite remember).
May 19, 2024 @ 23:59
It was fun to read about our Choquequirao hike – thank you. Nice photos too! I look forward to reading about the rest of your journey 🙂
May 21, 2024 @ 18:26
Thanks, Vicki. Great to get to know you on the hike and hope to meet again someday!
In Between | The Alternate Route
May 21, 2024 @ 18:51
[…] every moment of travel can be as thrilling as hiking to Choquequirao or visiting friends in Brazil and Chile or hanging out in Rio with my son or spending five weeks […]