Ecstatic

“There’s an ecstatic dance just across the way,” my new friend Lily told me as we were strolling through the small market at Zafra, a beautiful ecological reserve not far from San Rafael. I’m still not entirely sure what an ecstatic dance is, but it turns out we never made it – which is fine with me.

San Rafael was my destination for my final weekend in Colombia. It had been recommended by many people, including Charlotte and Julian, my fellow volunteers at Fundación Poder Joven. It is known for its beautiful crystal clear rivers with many swimming areas surrounded by green mountains and incredible flora and fauna. I’ve fallen in love with yet another place in Colombia!

Staying outside the small town of San Rafael was excellent advice (thanks, Julian) as I slept to an orchestra of insects, frogs, and who knows what else lurking in the forest, along with the gentle flowing water in the river just steps away from my AirBnB. I woke to gorgeous scenery and never tired of seeing the colorful birds and lush green fields and hills.

My AirBnB hosts were wonderful people who have dedicated their lives to helping others, especially Black and Indigenous groups in Colombia. Now settled in this paradise, just a 30-minute tuk tuk ride from town, I am honored to have been their first guest in their current home.

I had heard Zafra described as a hippy commune, and it had a bit of that feel to it. It was such a wonderful place to hang out on my first morning, sipping coffee and eating vegan cake, before hiking on the trails of the property.

A few hours later, heading up the dirt road that followed the river, I passed trails with signs leading to yoga centers, vegan camping, an “inspiration center,” more nature reserves, and lots of places to jump in the refreshingly cool water. I was in search of the last place on the road, another ecolodge, that had a few amazing reviews of their food.

It turns out their was no sign for this lodge, but I found it by passing through a random gate and following a trail, arriving at yet another hidden paradise. It was as if I’d crossed a portal to another world. The owners were so kind and so were the only other visitors, a couple from Medellín – Lily and her husband Juan. We were given a small glass of homemade wine as they were about to celebrate a birthday, and I was able to order a delicious lunch despite that fact that they weren’t expecting me.

While giving us a tour of the place, I asked the owner about the lack of signs and how people would be able to find this place. She said they will never put up signs because they don’t want just anyone wandering in. I was relieved to feel so welcomed and felt I had somehow passed a test to be able to find it on my own.

Lily, Juan and I bonded pretty quickly and spent the rest of the day together. They are another couple who have chosen to live their lives serving others – John through his work as a doctor and professor with a focus on humanistic medicine, and Lily through her work as a yoga instructor and all-around nicest person anyone has ever met. It seemed that everywhere we went, Lily knew someone, even though we were in the middle of a jungle. She must have introduced me to a dozen or more people and she met just as many more that day.

Sipping our last coffee of the day back at Zafra, sitting under the stars and listening the nightly orchestra begin, I was in awe of the all of the beautiful places I’d seen and the wonderful people I’d met. I wish my words could adequately convey the feeling of peace, community, and care for nature and others that I experienced in San Rafael.

I decided to walk back to town the next day, Easter Sunday, where I would catch the bus back to Medellín. I wanted to soak up every last bit of nature during the 90-minute walk. About half way through, facing steep hills and increasing humidity and beginning to reconsider this decision, a motorcycle stopped and the driver yelled “Amigo” while pointing to the back of the bike. I hopped on and enjoyed a refreshing and meditative ride up the winding roads without a word from the driver. It was a wonderful Easter gift and another ecstatic experience in San Rafael.

Throughout my weekend, I was constantly reminded that there are nice people everywhere, and Colombia may may have even more than you might find elsewhere!

What’s Next?

Soon I’ll have to put into words my experience saying goodbye to Casa Maren and Medellín, which hasn’t been easy. After that, look for posts from Brazil. I’m flying to Rio on Friday to spend a week with my son who is arriving from San Francisco. From there, I’ll be visiting friends in southern Brazil and northern Chile. Hasta luego!